![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_sq_1.jpg)
Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou
Latticed bridge trusses and hazy streetscapes adorn the garments of fashion designer Mary Katrantzou's Autumn Winter 2013 collection shown during London Fashion Week.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_3.jpg)
The angular shapes of the trusses are embossed onto leather and woven into lace to create repeating patterns.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_2.jpg)
Fabric is extended up from the bodice, flared out from the shoulders or exaggerated across the bust to create hard, architectural shapes.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_4.jpg)
In contrast, softer capes and dresses are draped in spirals around the body forming asymmetric layers of chiffon and silk.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_5.jpg)
Foggy streets and landscapes printed onto satin and silk are inspired by the black-and-white photography of Edward Steichen, Clarence White and Alfred Stieglitz.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_6.jpg)
More abstract prints look like leafless trees set against a dreary winter sky.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_7.jpg)
Subtle swathes of colour seep into some outfits and blend together like watercolour paintings.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_8.jpg)
Some outfits carry the same print throughout, whereas others mix simple tops with printed trousers or skirts.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_9.jpg)
Mary Katrantzou graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design with an MA in fashion textiles and won the Emerging Talent - Ready-to-wear award at the British Fashion Awards 2011.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_10.jpg)
The collection was shown during London Fashion Week last week, where Sister by Sibling presented a range of giant crocheted garments and accessories.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_11.jpg)
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Read on for more text from the designer:
Mary Kantrantzou Autumn Winter 2013
For autumn/winter 2013, Mary Katrantzou turns to landscape, inspired by the shadowy vistas of turn-of-the-century black-and-white photography of Edward Steichen, Clarence White and Alfred Stieglitz.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_13.jpg)
This isn't nature - but a man's view of nature, captured, refracted and ultimately distorted by the camera lens, fixed in black-and-white for eternity.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_14.jpg)
In a similar way, with Katrantzou's aesthetic wizardry, all is seldom what it immediately seems. Her graphics blur reality with fantasy, re-engineering nature to frame the female body.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_15.jpg)
Pablo Picasso rinsed his paintings of colour to highlight the formality of structure and his obsessive interest in line and form. Colour was distraction.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_16.jpg)
In a similar search for purity, for autumn/winter 2013 Mary Katrantzou finds focus in a similar stripping-back, the collection revolving around a rainbow of monochrome, velvety black, soft grey and crisp white, all strictly-controlled.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_17.jpg)
Pattern, rather than print, is the focus of this collection. It's pattern conveyed through the intricacy of intarsia knits, embroideries, jacquards and brocades, custom knit, woven and engineered to re-render a landscape across her clothes.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_18.jpg)
Lace is specially woven to mimic a latticed 'Bridge' design, while leather is embossed with graphics derived from Katrantzou's prints.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_19.jpg)
Print, of course, is still present - it is Katrantzou's leitmotif. For this collection, however, it is one part of a harmonious, multi-textured palette of effects, giving depth and vigour to the rigour of her designs.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_20.jpg)
Cotton embroidery is overprinted to give a blurred painterly mood, needle punched felt mimics the fade of black winter-stripped trees into a pale sky, sometimes embedded with Swarovski crystal.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_21.jpg)
Reversed brocade, when digitally printed, creates a blurred, holographic landscape. Colour flushed through the monochrome prints allows Katrantzou to invent her own landscapes, artificially engineered with the trickery of print.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_22.jpg)
The silhouette is linear - attenuated, elongated, elegant. For day, the silhouette is stark, architectural and austere, a symphony of angular lines focussed on the diagonal.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_23.jpg)
For night, those same shapes are reinterpreted as ghosts of their firmer selves in flowing organza, prints overlaid to create a hazy, misty optical illusion. The diagonal line becomes a spiral, a winding road meandering around the landscape of the woman's body.
![Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Mary Katrantzou](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/02/dezeen_Autumn-Winter-2013-collection-by-Mary-Katrantzou_1.jpg)
In Mary Katrantzou's hands, even nature becomes a fabrication - a moment in time immortalised in cloth. This season, each garment is a world in its own right.